A precise, smoothly operating clutch is a must if you plan to beat your competition to the first turn or from corner to corner. Your clutch assembly houses a number of different components, and the clutch plates (most specifically the fiber plates) take on a lot of wear, especially if you shift like a clumsy gorilla. With a “burnt out” clutch, you may experience a dragging or slipping sensation when exiting corners or launching out of the gate; or your steed may even creep forward despite your clutch lever being pulled to the bars. If this is the case, your rear wheel is spending more time spinning than it is hooking up in the dirt, translating to a valuable loss of momentum. Ready to put the past, and your competition behind you? Pay attention. RECOMMENDED TOOLS: Large Ziploc bag, gear oil, new clutch plates (fiber and metal), 8 and 10mm socket or T-handle wrench, two small picks or flathead screwdrivers, torque wrench, clutch cover gasket
STEP 1:
We recommend pre-soaking your new clutch plates with gear oil to ensure that they’re wet and lubricated before installing them in your bike. The easiest way to accomplish this is to stack your plates together and in order, starting with a fiber plate and alternating with your metal plates (eight fiber and seven metal plates total for a five-speed transmission). If you’re not replacing the metals, no worries, but if you are, stacking them now will save you the hassle later. Once stacked, slide them into a large Ziploc bag and pour the proper weight gear oil on top of them. If you ride and change your clutch frequently enough, it’s not a bad idea to have a spare stack pre-soaked and ready to go for next time.
*Note: Metal plates do not have to be replaced as frequently as the fibers, but if you detect excess wear or discoloring, we recommend changing them.
STEP 2:
With your new plates marinating, wash your bike, if it’s not already clean. Starting with a clean bike is a must, especially in the area surrounding the clutch cover, to prevent dirt from getting into your motor. Next, lean your bike over so that the grip or fork leg on the opposite side of the clutch cover is resting against your stand. To gain easy access for clutch cover removal, use your hands to back bleed your rear brake as shown in the photo. By applying pressure with your palm or thumbs to the caliper, the brake fluid will be forced back in the line, ultimately allowing the pedal to freely drop down and out of the way of the clutch cover.
STEP 3:
When removing the clutch cover bolts with your 8mm, it’s good practice to loosen each bolt evenly to prevent warping in the event that the cover is still hot. With the cover removed, use your 10mm to evenly remove the clutch hub/spring bolts. Once the bolts and springs are pulled out, the hub cover (pressure plate) can be lifted off of the assembly. Now it’s time to remove those old cooked plates, but doing so in one full stack is difficult, so we use a couple of small-blade flathead screwdrivers (small picks also work well) to guide and lift each plate out of the basket separately.
STEP 4:
With the plates now removed, it’s a good idea to inspect the wear on the clutch basket, particularly around the ridges. Worn plates that are left in operation for too long may get sloppy and loose, resulting in clutch basket wear that could ultimately cause clutch slippage.
STEP 5:
Now it’s time to install your new clutch plates. Starting with a fiber, and making sure that each plate has a nice even coat of oil, slide the plate into the basket with either side facing out. The next plate in will be a metal one, and it’s critical that it goes in with the flat, machined surface facing out. Continue this process until the last fiber plate is installed. The height of the stack will be nearly flush with the edge of the basket.
STEP 6:
Finally, place the hub cover (pressure plate) back on top of the basket, install the springs, washers, and bolts, and evenly tighten them in a star pattern until gently snug. Using a torque wrench, torque each bolt to the manufacturer’s spec in the same star pattern, and then reinstall the clutch cover. If your clutch cover gasket is the paper type, replace it with a freshy as well.
Note: Depending upon the level of abuse, it’s a good idea to replace the clutch springs every two to three clutch changes.
Posted: Feb 08, 2008
