Manitoba Motocross Association

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Most riders aren’t able to ride all year long due to seasonal temperatures and snowfall. This small guide is intended to assist you in preparing your motorcycle for periods of storage or inactivity. You are urged to follow the instructions and advice contained here, referencing specific model information from your Owner’s Manual and or Service/Technical Manual to maintain the highest level of safety and preparedness to preserve the value of your investment.

Cleaning

• Thoroughly wash and dry the motorcycle, dirt and bug remains retain water and can be acidic and cause corrosion to alloys.
• Polish and wax all chrome and painted surfaces.
• Spray unpainted castings with S100R Corrosion Protectant.
• Always refer to your Owner’s Manual as to the specific cleaning needs of your motorcycle.

Oil Changes

• It is recommended that the engine oil and filter be changed prior to long periods of inactivity.
• Follow your manufacturer’s recommendations on oil viscosity and type as well as an O.E.M. oil filter.
• Once the oil has been changed, start and run the engine to allow the clean oil to circulate throughout the engine for approximately three minutes.
• If the motorcycle will be stored for longer than 6 months, drain and replace all other oils such as gearbox and fork oil.
• Run the motorcycle for approximately three minutes, using several gears to ensure proper oil coverage in transmission. This will reduce the risk of any moisture or contaminants damaging vital internal components.

Brake and Clutch Fluid

• Review your motorcycle’s brake and clutch fluid requirement for renewal and if these fluids are overdue or close to their renewal, it is advisable to change these fluids since contaminated fluid will cause corrosion and deterioration to the hydraulic systems for clutch and brakes.
• The fluids should be clear and amber in colour, dark or cloudy fluids should be flushed and the renewed.

Drive Chain

• It is recommended that a specifically formulated spray cleaner be used such as Motul Chain Cleaner be used.
• Gasoline, Varsol and WD40 are not recommended to clean drive chains with o-rings in them.
• Do not clean the chain with the motorcycle running.
• Spray washing a drive chain is also not recommended.
• A soft brush or cloth may be used to wipe excess lubricant and cleaner off the chain.
• A specifically formulated quality chain lubricant is recommended.

Fuel Tank

• Drain the fuel tank to remove any moisture or contaminants from the fuel tank.
• Refill the fuel tank with fresh fuel to prevent rusting or condensation.
• Fresh fuel in a large quantity remains more stable than in small quantities. Should a fuel stabilizer be considered, ensure that any fuel stabilizer products are approved by the manufacturer prior to use.

Carburetor

• Drain the carburetor float bowl of fuel prior to storage.
• Smaller quantities of fuel are less stable and tend to break down over time, draining the float bowl will prevent build up of fuel deposits in the carburetor circuits, jets and needle and seat assembly.

Tires

• Park the motorcycle on the centre stand for the storage period to remove all weight on the tires. In lieu of a centre stand, blocks of wood can be used to support the motorcycle.
• Inflate the tires to the recommended tire pressures.
• Remove all gravel, dirt and other track contaminants from the tire treads.
• Now is the best time to measure your tire depths to see if new tires should be on your gift list!

Chassis

Where no grease fittings are available, lubricate with CRC5556 or WD40 – clutch and brake lever pivots, rear brake pedal and linkage pivots, throttle body or carburetor linkage.

Covers & Storage

• Use a vented cover that allows moisture to escape.
• Select a storage area that is free from dampness and high humidity.
• Do not store the motorcycle in direct sunlight.
• Ensure adequate ventilation and do not store near open flames or sparks.

Always refer to your Owner’s Manual for the specific needs of storing your Motorcycle!

“In a race, the first few laps are critical if you want to do well. In the beginning stages of a race…..especially if you have gotten a bad start….the majority of your passes can be made. Don’t follow those ahead of you, or wait for an opening; make things happen!”

Grant Langston

“I know it’s scary, but try to attack downhills as if they were normal straights. Ride a gear higher and try to wheelie over some of the braking bumps on the way down, and brace yourself for the bumps at the bottom. If I know that a big downhill is coming, I take a deep breath at the top and relax my grip on the bars.”

Tim Ferry

“Even though it may feel less comfortable, make sure that you have your goggle strap nice and tight. Once you start to sweat, the foam will compress and if you don’t have the strap tight enough, the goggles won’t seal against your face and this will let dirt and mud in.”

Matt Walker